Craft & Fabrics

Craft & Fabrics

A bespoke garment is decided by two things: the hand and the cloth. This page explains how we work — the eight-step process, individual pattern cutting, and full canvas construction padded by hand — and what we cut: cloths from 13 British and Italian mills including Holland & Sherry, Scabal, Loro Piana, Zegna, Dormeuil and Vitale Barberis Canonico. Quality is decided at the source.

Handwork

The weight of handwork lives where nobody looks

Whether a suit drapes in year three or collapses is decided by the layers nobody sees: the chest canvas, the collar, the sleeve head.

度·BESPOKE designer adjusting a jacket on a dress form

Hand buttonholes & sleeve setting

Buttonholes are worked by hand in silk, edge after edge; cuffs can be made functional — the classic bespoke signature. Sleeves are set by hand: the sleeve head is eased by hand before attaching, so the shoulder moves with you instead of pulling across the back.

  • ButtonholesHand-worked in silk; functional cuffs on request
  • SleevesHand-eased sleeve heads, set section by section
  • LapelHand-padded break, no visible stitching

Full canvas: the soul of the chest

A full-canvas front uses a horsehair-and-wool canvas, floated over the cloth and fixed point by point with hand padding stitches. Cloth and canvas keep a microscopic freedom of movement, so the chest holds a sculpted, living line instead of a flat board.

Fused interlinings are glued under heat and pressure: fast and cheap to make, but the glue degrades through dry cleaning and the chest bubbles in a pattern that cannot be repaired. This is the most practical difference between a bespoke suit and a production one.

  • Chest canvasHand-padded, floated — never glued
  • PressingShaped section by section, never flattened
  • Pattern matchingChecks aligned across pockets, lapels and placket
The 度 maker's label and interior lining of a 度·BESPOKE garment, full canvas shaped from within

Fabrics

Strategic mill partnerships: quality decided at the source

Thirteen British and Italian mills; swatch books and stock cloths at the atelier, ready to be handled side by side.

度·BESPOKE's 13 partner mills: Holland & Sherry, REDA, Loro Piana, Zegna, DRAGO, Dormeuil, Tessile 1925, Scabal, VBC, Albini, Thomas Mason, Marzoni, Marzotto
The 度·BESPOKE mill directory
  • Holland & SherryUK · classic suiting cloth merchant
  • ScabalUK · fine worsted specialist
  • Thomas MasonUK 1796 · shirting classic
  • DormeuilFrance 1842 · rare fibres & evening cloth
  • Loro PianaItaly · cashmere & ultra-fine wool
  • Ermenegildo ZegnaItaly · Biella wool group
  • Vitale Barberis CanonicoItaly 1663 · among the world's oldest mills
  • REDAItaly 1865 · Biella worsteds
  • DRAGOItaly Biella · lightweight worsteds
  • AlbiniItaly 1876 · fine cotton shirting
  • MarzoniItaly · worsteds & evening cloth
  • MarzottoItaly · wool & blends group
  • Tessile 1925Italy · modern weaving mill

Cloth Close-up

Scabal collections in detail

Official collection imagery from Scabal; the corresponding books and swatches are in store to be touched.

Scabal Wizard cloth with woven SUPER 170'S selvedge label
Scabal Wizard · 100% Super 170's wool, two-way natural stretch
Scabal Phantom cloth, Super 180's lightweight
Scabal Phantom · Super 180's, 190g
Scabal Image cloth rolls with Super 100's Lightweight selvedge
Scabal Image · superfine merino, prunelle weave
Scabal Jazz summer jacketing cloth
Scabal Jazz · wool & linen hopsack for summer jackets
Scabal Nobility silk-wool cloth
Scabal Nobility · wool & silk, jacketing luxury
Scabal Riviera Trend checked jacketing cloth
Scabal Riviera Trend · checks and houndstooth jacketings

Proof

Partnership you can see: the mill label

Every finished garment keeps its mill label inside — open the sleeve and you can see exactly whose cloth it is. That transparency is why we are confident about sourcing.

  • Mill labelsScabal, Marzoni and other original labels kept inside
  • Leather mark度·BESPOKE leather label, hand-stitched
  • Gold sealThe house seal of the 度 mark
Scabal mill label inside a 度·BESPOKE garment
Scabal mill label inside our finished work
Marzoni mill label inside a 度·BESPOKE garment
Marzoni mill label inside our finished work
DRAPERS mill label with gold-thread 度 embroidery inside a 度·BESPOKE garment
DRAPERS label with gold-thread 度 embroidery

Come and feel the cloth

Cloth has to be handled. Books and swatches from all 13 mills are in store, by appointment.